Zoanthus Coral is a wonderful choice for the person who is just beginning to add coral reef to their saltwater aquarium. Reef enthusiast find that Zoanthus is a hardy coral that flourishes in most saltwater tanks. Zoanthus coral does not like to be fed a meaty diet and prefers to have its food finely chopped. Zoanthus Coral can be found in a variety of colors, many experienced saltwater reef aquarium owners like to use Zoanthus as a filer coral for their more temperamental varieties of coral reef. Zianthus is also called Sea Mat and Bottom Polyps.

Another good variety of starter coral is Cladiella, Cladiella is also commonly referred to as Colt Coral and Finger Leather Coral. The Cladiella Coral is renowned for is adaptability. Anyone interested in using Cladiella Coral in their saltwater reef aquarium must make sure that it is securely anchored or it will not grow.

Something like Siderastrea Coral. Siderastrea is a soft coral, that is tolerant of light, temperature, changes in the tanks quality of water, and currents. It is typically tan or gray or white. Although it can occasionally be found in round domes the typical shape of the Siderastrea Coral is flat plates that can measure anywhere from 4-12 inches around. Pink Starlet Coral, Starlet Coral, and Lesser Starlet Coral are three names that commonly refer to Siderastrea Coral.

Once the saltwater aquarium owner becomes comfortable caring for his hardier varieties of coral they may wish to move onto something a little more challenging.

Fish and coral seem to go together, some types better then others. When an aquarium owner is looking to purchase fish they must consider the compatibility of the fish to the coral. It is also important to make sure that the fish you are purchasing for your saltwater aquarium are healthy. Take the time to examine their eyes, scales, skin, abdomen, mouth and fins before making your final decision.

The eyes of your fish should be clear and bright. A cloudy film obscuring the eye could be a sign of an internal bacterial infection. A saltwater fish that has blotchy scales is a fish that is potentially dealing with an internal disease. Fish that have bruised mouths can sometimes lack an appetite, look for a fish with a firm unbruised mouth. Your potential fish should have an abdomen that is firm, and gently rounded. The fins should be crisp and clean. A fish that has scales that are ragged or one that’s fins are starting to droop and sag.

There are four main variety’s of algae; green algae, brown algae, red-brush algae, and blue green algae.

Green algae is the variety of algae that most people are familiar with. Green algae thrives in any aquarium that receives an abundance of light. The two most commonly seen green algaes in aquariums are hair algae and hard ‘green dot algae’. Hair algae are long wispy strands of algae that are easily cleaned from the tank. The green-dot algae appears as green dots of algae on the side of the aquarium, it is very difficult and time consuming to remove green dot algae.

It is common for brown algae to appear when a tank that has just been started. It typically puts in an appearance within the first two weeks. Its appearance in established tanks means that the aquarium owner needs to test the nitrate and phosphate levels of this tank. Brown algae is unusual because it thrives in aquariums that do not receive a great deal of light. When brown algae appears in the tank the aquarium owner needs to clean the entire tank and increase the lighting. It is not unusual for brown algae to disappear when the tank conditions stabilize.

Red-brush algae is a variety of algae that loves aquariums that have a high PH. It is incredibly difficult to manually remove red-brush algae from aquariums.

Blue-green algae is deceptive because it’s not an algae at all. It is really a cynobacteria. When it appears in the aquarium it looks like a slime that is taking over the tank. Blue-green algae can be fatal to aquarium plants and can jeopardize the health of the fish.

There are many ways you can discourage the growth of algae in your saltwater tanks.

One of the simplest ways to limit the amount of algae in your saltwater tank is to reduce your lighting. Leaving your aquarium lights on for less then nine hours a day will limit the amount of time algae has to photosynthesis. Use the lowest wattage possible.

Use distilled water whenever you clean your saltwater aquarium or change the water. Changing your water every two to three weeks will limit the amount of time algae can grow in your tank. When you change the water make sure you vacuum your rocks. Also keep the use of additives to a minimum. Change your prefilter pad weekly.

Stock your tank with algae eating fish. In saltwater tanks this will be; hard star fish, Yellow Tang fish, Blennies, Turbo snails, Angel fish, and small Hermit Crabs.

Purchase the largest, strongest algae glass cleaning magnet you can find and then use it. If you use the magnet each and every time you clean the water your tank the glass on your tank should stay algae free. Be sure to clean the magnet after each use. For particularly stubborn algae spots, you will have to use a razor blade. Don’t forget to clean the overflow pipes.

The odds of purchasing a healthy fish is by purchasing it from a reputable pet store. If you walk into a store that sells pet fish for private aquariums and your immediately flattened by the odor of rotting seafood turn around and walk away. It isn’t unusual for fish stores to have a peculiar musty scent. Strong odar can indicate a store who is not as concerned as they should be about the care of their animals.

Take a good look at the store’s aquariums. The tanks should be clean. The water should be clear. Don’t be alarmed if you see a tank that has a sign announcing that the fish in the tank aren’t for sale. Many fish stores don’t have enough room for a quarantine tank.

The staff should be friendly and attentive. If the store is having a slow spell the employees should be cleaning tanks or feeding fish. When they catch a fish, the handler should use two nets and corner the fish, eliminating unnecessary stress. The members of the staff should be helpful and informative.

The rule of thumb is that if there are more then three dead fish in a tank consider shopping somewhere else. Dead fish happen. When stores are busy they don’t always have the time to clean the deceased fish from the tank. So one or two is not necessarily a bad omen, but more then that and you’ll want to consider looking somewhere else before you stock your saltwater aquarium.

When you are shopping for tropical fish take your time and really study the fish. Take note of their physical condition. Study their eyes, fins, mouths, scales, and abdomens. Put your hand as close to the glass as you can without actually touching it. The fish should either swim towards your hand, looking for food, or they should dart for cover. If a fish doesn’t look or act healthy, don’t purchase it.

Before you go shopping for tropical fish, gather a little knowledge. Make sure that the fish you purchase are compatible. Make sure you know what kind of food they require (predatory fish generally need frozen or live bait). If you decide that you want to own a predatory fish that requires live food make sure that you have a way of keeping that food alive, in many cases this will mean a completely separate tank. If you are eventually planning adding coral to your saltwater aquarium you may want to start thinking ahead and purchase fish that are compatible with coral.

One thing that cannot be shirked upon is the size of a tank. It must be more than adequate to allow the species of fish that are chosen to inhabit it plenty of room to exercise and grow. Just as a person cannot thrive in an enclosed environment, neither can a fish. A 75 gallon tank is a generous size for the home marine biologist to establish their own eco-system and allows for space for several species of fish to spread out (provided they are compatible species, of course. Putting two species together who are unsuited to tank life together is a recipe for disaster, regardless of the size of the tank).

Courtesy of advances in the convenience of establishing a home aquarium it is now possible to purchase an aquarium that has been pre-drilled in order to prevent overflow. This provides a cleaner look than the traditional ‘hang on the back’ overflow system for the home professional who is attempting to create the picture perfect reef aquarium.

There are many options for decorating a reef aquarium, although it is generally much more aesthetically pleasing and healthy to the fish to keep all of the decorations one hundred percent organic. Live rock is a vital element to any eco-system, yet makes a lovely addition to a home saltwater aquarium. The microorganisms which grow on the rock (the rock is not really alive, obviously; it gets its name from the fact that it is a natural habitat for many species of bacteria) will help to filter out the harmful waste products produced by the fish that will accumulate in the water of a saltwater aquarium in spite of the filtering system-after all, how often does Mother Nature need to clean her saltwater aquarium? She has created the perfect filtering system as long as man does not add any elements to throw off the balance.

Live plants and coral are also essential elements to the perfect reef aquarium. There are many different types of plants which can be added to a reef aquarium, and it is best to choose based on the species of fish which will be inhabiting the tank. For successful transplantation of live aquarium plants it is essential that the sand or silt on the bottom of the tank be deep enough to allow the roots of the plants to successfully take hold. These plants will also require additional light and carbon dioxide to allow for proper photosynthesis.

There are many options for creating the perfect saltwater aquarium, many of them very costly; however, with the proper mix of imagination and frugality it is possible to create a reef aquarium that is aesthetically, ecologically and financially friendly.

When selecting decorations for your home aquarium you will be given an option of decorating with either plastic accoutrements or bringing nature into your home by installing live plants and other organisms in your aquarium. The choice is certainly yours; however, bear in mind that the fish you will be installing in your tank undoubtedly would be using the types of things that you would consider decorations for shelter when out in the wild. Therefore, it is in the best interests of your fish (and your aesthetic senses) to go the natural route.

Live rock is an invaluable addition to any saltwater aquarium, serving not only as an aesthetically pleasing ornamentation but as a vital part of the aquarium’s ecosystem. Live rock is rock that is covered with both micro- and macroorganisms which will help filter the waste products out of the water, making it a safe habitat for its aquatic inhabitants. Driftwood and sand are also essential elements of a saltwater fish’s natural habitat and provide a beautiful backdrop to showcase the glorious beauty of your saltwater fish.

Live plants are also a beautiful, functional addition to your saltwater aquarium, as they serve to help oxygenate the tank and provide the fish with a spot to inhabit and, if you are incredibly lucky, lay their eggs. There are a variety of choices for you to choose from, and it is very helpful to choose the breeds of fish which you wish to place in your tank prior to making a decision. They will thrive best with the same types of vegetation which would be present in their environment had they been allowed to stay in the wild rather than coming to grace your home aquarium. It may be necessary to make some special concessions in order to assure the well being of your saltwater plants. Plants need carbon dioxide and light to perform their photosynthesis process, so your tank is going to need to be well lit at least part of the day and may require the addition of an artificial carbon dioxide producer. The sand, silt or gravel which you choose to cover the bottom of your aquarium with must be of an adequate depth to allow the roots of the plant to take hold; around 8 cm is generally adequate, although this may vary from plant to plant. These adjustments may seem like a great deal of extra work but will be well worth the end results.

The beauty of a well decorated saltwater aquarium is incomparable, and will bring pleasure to its owners for years to come. For further assistance in selecting tank accessories that are both beautiful and functional consult with your local vendor of tropical fish.

Fish are also very adaptable creatures. It is what allows them to live and thrive in captivity when many other marine animals are unable to make the change. The fish will adapt to the environment around them and learn to live in the conditions of their tank. It is important that these conditions remain as constant as possible. As in nature a tip in the balance of the elements in an aquarium can bring with it devastating consequences. It is important that changes in the aquarium environment be few and far between.

This is generally a very simple matter until the time comes for the water in the tank to be changed. In nature the water in the ocean is constantly cycling; therefore, the water never has the opportunity to become stale and overloaded with elements that will have a negative impact on the well being of your aquatic friends. Since this is not the case in an aquarium even with an excellent artificial filtering system and organic filtering methods combined it will still be necessary on occasion to manually clean the tank.

The water with which you replace the dirty water in the aquarium should be as close as possible to the water that was originally filling the tank. What this means is that if you opted to buy a pre-made saltwater mix when you started your tank you should continue to use that same pre-made saltwater mix. If you made your own saltwater you should use the same type of sea salt in the same proportions that you used in the beginning. If you opted to transplant ocean water or purchased filtered ocean water you are going to want to use that same type of water when you make the change.

Water in aquariums should be changed every couple of months, more if you happen to notice that wastes are beginning to build up. This will be evident by the hazy look the previously clear water will take on and the obvious accumulation of waste at the bottom of the tank. Be sure when you change the water you also clean the components of the tank and the inside of the glass itself. Putting clean water into an empty tank is along the same lines as putting clean clothes on a dirty body-there is little point.

By keeping your tank clean and the conditions as constant as possible you are giving your fish the best possible chance to thrive in their artificial environment, guaranteeing that you will be able to enjoy their beauty for a very long time.

The first is size. As trite as it may sound an aquarium is a definite example of a time when size matters. The size of the aquarium must be sufficient to hold the types and number of fish which the owner intends to place inside. Just as you would never attempt to place a large goldfish inside a small bowl neither should you attempt to place a large saltwater fish in a small aquarium. This is particularly true if you are attempting to add a small carnivore, such as one of the smaller breeds of shark, to your home. These predators need space to swim or they will slowly make themselves mad and perhaps even perish from the confinement (a bit melodramatic and Victorian, but true nonetheless).

There are several options for size when it comes to aquariums, and a good pet shop should be able to help advise consumers as to which size would best suit their needs.

Another consideration is materials. Glass and acrylic are the two choices most widely available on the market at the moment. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Glass is by far the more popular of the two due to the fact that it is less likely to scratch, allowing the sides to maintain their clarity. It is also considerably less expensive, an important consideration as it can cost a great deal of money to establish a saltwater aquarium and every advantage should be taken. Finally, the nature of the silicone sealant used in glass aquariums allows the tank to expand more readily when water is added.

Acrylic tanks come with their own advantages. There is almost no limit to the shape and size that an acrylic tank can take, allowing for a greater amount of creativity in tank design. It is also considerably more durable than glass, an important consideration if the aquarium is going to be displayed in a public place or if the owner has small children. Where a small bump may crack or otherwise damage a glass tank acrylic tanks are made of hardier stuff. It is also easier to adjust the filtration options on an acrylic tank, as it is not necessary to have the number of special tools available that are necessary to cut glass.

Whether acrylic or glass the would-be saltwater aquarium owner will probably have the option to purchase a pre-drilled tank to prevent overflow, giving the tank a much smoother appearance than the antiquated but still popular ‘hang on the back’ method.

Buying an aquarium can be a tricky business; however, the truth of the matter is that as long as the ecosystem is properly designed and the tank cleaned thoroughly prior to use there is no right or wrong choice. It is all a matter of personal preference.

Unfortunately, although science has made many advances in that area it is not yet possible for man to live under the sea. A small taste of what is would be like to have the ocean as your floor, walls and sky can be obtained by installing an in wall aquarium.

In wall aquariums come in many shapes and sizes, from tanks no larger than the screen on a small television sets to the great tanks that make up the walls of the National Aquarium in Baltimore, Maryland. Installing these tanks is not difficult, although it does require a great deal of time and effort; however, with the proper directions and guidance anyone can allow themselves to enjoy these beautiful home accents.

Before you get too carried away with the concept of being able to float along in a mermaid lagoon (even if it is only in your mind) it is important that you first ensure that your home is going to be able to support the aquarium you wish to install in it. The strength of your wall studs is going to be the determining factor on whether it is possible to place an aquarium directly in the foundation of your home; if they are not strong enough to support the weight of the aquarium the mission must be aborted at the very beginning.

It is possible to hire a company to come and install your aquarium for you, ensuring that the cables and pumps will be neatly hidden and the aquarium seamlessly placed into the fabric of your home. While this is more expensive than doing it yourself it does guarantee success (after all, if a professional makes a mistake which installing your aquarium they are responsible for the repairs, not you). If you are new to the business of installing in home aquariums, or home repair in general, or if you do not have a great deal of time on your hands this is probably the option for you.

While in wall aquariums are more expensive than their traditional relations they bring with them a set of advantages uniquely their own. They generally require fewer cords and plugs, as well as less maintenance. They allow you to save space and ensure that little fingers do not find their way into the aquarium to torment the fish. Most of all, they allow you to bring just a little bit of every child’s dream into your home, blending fantasy and reality in a way that was previously only available on t.v.

The importance of the thirty day cycling process cannot be understated; this is a vital part of establishing the ecosystem of each individual aquarium. The exact processes which are occurring during this cycle, however, are often not well explained, or else they may be a little too well explained and no one without a degree in organic chemistry can understand a word that is being spoken.

The truth is that while the nitrogen cycling process is a complex one it is not by any means impossible for the average citizen to understand. James Kostich of Aquatics Unlimited took the time to gather together a thorough, day-by-day explanation of the processes which are occurring during the thirty day cycling process in a manner that is simple for even the amateur aquarium designer to understand. This explanation can be found at http://www.bestfish.com/newtank3.html; however, the process is briefly summed up below.

If you are using fish to stimulate the cycling process take a great deal of care. While on the first day there is likely to be no ammonia in the tank, by the end of the third day these levels will have reached near toxicity. It is important to carefully monitor the fish during this crucial state; it may be even better to use an artificial source of ammonia to trigger this process. This will allow you to establish the proper balance in the tank without placing your aquatic friends at risk. While ammonia levels are beginning to rise first stage bacteria are beginning to grow.

By the fifth day these first stage bacteria will have begun to metabolize the ammonia into nitrite. This process will be well established by the end of the first week. At the end of the second week ammonia levels will be completely safe for the fish and nitrites will be at their peak. From here until approximately day 27 the second stage bacteria will be working to begin metabolizing the nitrite to nitrate. By day 30 ammonia and nitrite levels should be all but non-existent as nitrate levels reach their peak and the bacterium are well able to handle maintaining the chemical composition of the water.

This is an example of minimizing Mother Nature’s perfect filtration system in order to provide your fish with the perfect habitat. Hopefully you have chosen to artificially stimulate the cycling process so that it is well established prior to inserting your fish. If you have not it is very important that you keep a very close eye on them while the tank is undergoing its cycling process. The spikes in ammonia and nitrite levels can be severely harmful to fish if they are exposed to it for too great a period of time, and they will likely begin to show signs of distress during these periods of the cycling process. If this becomes severe their conditions can be aided by changing a portion of the water in order to dilute the concentration of these products.

Aquariums are beautiful in their own right, particularly ones which are large enough to make the viewer feel as though they have been transported into an underwater wonderland. For many individuals the inside of a clear glass aquarium is as close as they will ever come to the wonders of the world beneath the ocean’s surface, and for that reason an aquarium which is as close to the natural habitat of its inhabitants as possible is a joy unto itself.

Live rocks, rocks which are covered with both micro- and macroorganisms which help to digest the waste produced by the fish, are a vital part of every natural ecosystem. For that reason it makes sense that they would be an important part of an aquarium environment as well. It is not as simple as dropping a rock into an aquarium and allowing all manner of things to grow on it, however. There is a process that must be followed to ensure optimal benefits for both the large aquarium and the live rock.

It is very simple to cure live rock before placing it in the aquarium, but this is an important step that must be taken in order to prevent a build up of ammonia in the tank which could negatively affect the fish. To cure live rock first select a plastic container that is of a suitable size to hold the amount of live rock which you are working with, then fill it with saltwater. Then place a heater and water pump in the ‘tank’ for optimal temperature and circulation. Once the water has reached the desired temperature remove the heater and pump and half of the water content, then preclean the rock in a bucket of saltwater by swishing it around to remove any lose organisms and debris and place it in the prepared water. Then reinstall the heater and pump and allow nature to do its thing!

The process is done when an ammonia reading of the water in which the rock resides is at zero and it is no longer giving off an unpleasant odor. At this time it is safe to place the rock in your aquarium and allow Mother Nature’s perfect filtering system to work for you.